The Baptistery and the Gates of Paradise

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My beautiful San Giovanni

When you think about the Baptistery of St.John in Florence it's easy to remember Dante's words in the Divine Comedy describing it as "my beautiful San Giovanni". Located in Piazza del Duomo, right in front of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, it is one of the most important monuments in Florence.

Its origins are unknown. It is believed that it was built over the ruins of a Roman temple dedicated to Mars around dating back to the IV-V century A.D. It was first described in 897 as a minor basilica. In 1128 it turned into the baptistery of Florence where baptisms took place. Up until the end of the 19th century, all Catholics in Florence were baptized here.

The Baptistery, entitled to Florence's patron saint, has an octagonal plan and an octagonal lantern with a cupola. Outside it is clad in geometrically patterned colored marble, white Carrara marble and green Prato marble that are typical of Florentine architecture. On three sides there are three large doors that are famous for its decorations. The oldest ones are the South Doors by Andrea Pisano made around 1330 (overlooking Via dei Calzaiuoli). The doors consist of 28 quatrefoil panels depicting scenes from St. John's life. The Northern Doors are by Lorenzo Ghiberti (1403-1424) and tell Stories of the Life and Passion of Christ taken from the New Testament. The doors in front of the Duomo are the beautiful gold Gates of Paradise, also by Ghiberti, and depict scenes from the Old Testament.

Over the doors stand three different groups of statues: over the South Doors stand the famous bronzes depicting the Beheading of St. John by Vincenzo Danti, restored in 2008. Over the North-facing doors there is the Baptism of Christ by Andrea Sansovino and an Angel by Innocenzo Spinazzi, added in 1792. Over the Gates of Paradise stand the marble group by Giovanni Francesco Rustici depicting John the Baptist preaching to a Pharisee and Sadducee (1506-1511).

The inside deserves a special visit for the beautiful 13th century mosaics over the cupola, the spectacular mosaic marble pavement with geometrical patterns and oriental zodiac motifs. There is also the monumental tomb of Baladassare Cossa - Antipope Julius XXIII - realized by Donatello and Michelozzo between 1422 and 1428.

The Gates of Paradise

At the beginning of the 14th century the Arte of Calimala - Wool Merchants' Guild - announced a public competition to design the Baptistery's northern doors. Many artists participated in this competition, including important artists such as Ghiberti and Brunelleschi. Every artist had to design a quatrefoil panel depicting the Sacrifice by Isaac. Ghiberti created a balanced and carefully detailed panel. On the other hand, Brunelleschi's work was dramatic: Isaac writhes in pain, the servants in the foreground are very realistic. Ghiberti won the hearts of the judges and thus was awarded the commission to create the eastern doors.

The Gates of Paradise received their name from Michelangelo himself when, looking at the panels, he exclaimed: "they are so beauriful that they would be perfect for the gates of Paradise". The doors consist of 10 rectangular panels, displayed in two lines. They depict scenes of the Old Testament that go from left to right and from top to bottom. In each panel, Ghiberti described more than one scene so that there are over fifty scenes depicted. There are also 24 small busts of famous Florentines, among these you'll find Ghiberti's own self-portrait.

The original panels of the Gates of Paradise are now displayed at the Opera del Duomo Museum, the ones in situ are copies.

 

 

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